Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Toledo - not Ohio


Today we took a day trip out of Madrid to the smaller city of Toledo. (Toe-lay-doe)

Toledo is about 70 km south of Madrid and has reference in some documents to 1000 years BC. We felt small on this earth walking around in a city that is over 3000 years old. Toledo was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1986 for its extensive cultural and monumental heritage and historical co-existence of Christian, Muslim and Jewish cultures. (Until the Muslims and Jewish were driven out in the 1490's).

Toledo is known as the "Imperial City" for having been the main capitol of Spain until the early 1500's when Madrid became the capitol of the country. In 1085, it the first major city to fall in the Christian Reconquista. Toledo has a history in the production of swords and knives, which are now popular souvenirs of the city and of Zach. Toledo has been a traditional sword-making, steel-working centre since about 500 BC, and came to the attention of Rome when used in the Punic Wars. Soon, it became a standard source of weaponry for Roman Legions.

The old city is located on a mountaintop with a 150 degree view, surrounded on three sides by a bend in the Tagus River, and contains many historical sites, including the Alcazar Fortress, the Palace of Spain prior to the 1500's and the Cathedral of Toledo which is amazing to tour (pictures to follow). The river is in a deep canyon and created a natural moat around the city for protection through the years.

The Cathedral (Catedral de Toledo) was built between 1226–1493. It is remarkable for its incorporation of light and features the Baroque altar called El Transparente, several stories high, with fantastic figures of stucco, paintings, bronze castings, and multiple colors of marble, a masterpiece topped by the daily effect for just a few minutes of a shaft of light from which this feature of the cathedral derives its name.

Toledo was also the home of the painter El Greco and his masterpieces can be found throughout the city. The main display of his works are in the sacristy of the Cathedral which was open to the public.

After a great tour of Toledo we are back in Madrid packing our bags for a quick flight to Paris tomorrow.

Also of note, for those who have read The Ingenious Gentleman Don Quixote of La Mancha, Toledo is the scene of part of his travels.
Toledo

The Cathedral

Front Gate of the Cathedral in Toledo

Incredible detail in woodwork throughout the cathedral

Found some shade on this 104 degree day

Entranced by the Holy Spirit???

Gardens in the center of a Franciscan monastery in Toledo

Old church in Toledo - mid 800's

Madona and child - Alabaster - Early 1500's

Altar in Cathedral - 500 plus years of artwork

Saint Pete

Caption to go with Saint Pete

Ceiling of the sacristy in the Cathedral

El Greco in the sacristy of the Cathedral

Another view of the front of the Cathedral in Toledo

View of the river from gardens in Toledo

View of the river and countryside from the walls of Toledo

Monastery gardens

Inside the monastary

Beautiful day and incredible architecture

City gate crossing the river

View looking back at Toledo


A creepy voyeur looking at a couple on a loft above our sidewalk dinner in Madrid
Last stop in Madrid.  A great beer bar on the Calle de Mayor a few blocks from out apartment.

Monday, June 29, 2015

Madrid - Hemingway, Guernica, Prado, Almundena Cathedral - by Kathy

Greetings from Madrid where yesterday the temperature reached a high of 102 degrees and today is expected to reach 106.  We are definitely slowing down our pace as we adjust to the heat but our tour of Spain has not suffered for it.

We arrived in Madrid on Friday evening and immediately became enchanted with this loud, boisterous city. It was a happy discovery to learn that our apartment was located across the street from the Plaza Mayor and on the Calle Mayor which means that we are close to tapas, sangrias, and gelato stores.  We set out to explore the city on Friday night and immediately discovered the Almundena Cathedral which is located next door to the Royal Palace.  The royal family doesn't live at the palace anymore, but it is open for visits.

Almundena Cathedral (blogger keeps trying to change that to Almond Cathedral) opened fairly recently in 1993 almost one hundred years after work started on it.  It's neo-gothic with sweeping columns supporting the brightly painted ceiling and dome.  It was beautiful and we decided then to come back for Mass on Sunday, which we absolutely did.  Mass was wonderful and a surprisingly short 45 minutes but the pipe organ made with 5,000 pipesplayed and you really got a sense of how important and awe inspiring these cathedrals would be to people attending mass two, three, four, five hundred years ago.

Saturday brought us to the Reina Sofia, a modern art museum in Madrid.  Reina Sofia is the home to Picasso's Guernica.  People told me before we left for our trip that Guernica needs to be seen and that you don't really appreciate it until you see it in person.  Guernica is huge, covering the side of a very large wall in the museum.  As our guide book says, it "is not only a piece of art but a piece of history, capturing the horror of modern war in a modern style."  I can't add to that, only that it was overwhelming and beautiful and I am glad that I was able to see it in person.  Reina Sofia is also home to some works by Goya and Dali, as well as more works by Picasso.  It was a good introduction to the city.

Later on Saturday, we decided to track down our old friend Ernest Hemingway at the Cerverceria Alemana where we sat at his table by the window and which now featured a photo of bullfighting on one side and a photo of Ernesto on the other.  We enjoyed some cerveza and tapas while soaking in the action of the square and thinking about becoming expats in Madrid.  By the way, the people watching here is spectacular.

On Sunday we started the day at the cathedral but quickly got our tourist pants on and went to the Prado museum.  Here's the thing about the Prado museum.  I could move here, start a blog on the Prado museum and never get to explain everything that is in there or how amazing it is. Prado is filled with treasures.  We spent three hours just in the downstairs before we were able to pull ourselves away and track down the great masters upstairs.  Who and what did we see?  Goya, Diego Velazquez, Hieronymous Bosch's Garden of Earthly Delights, Picasso, Remembrance, Rubens, and some astonishing Flemish painters.  There was a special exhibit on the works of Roger van der Weyden which featured the astonishing Descent from the Cross - a complexly painted piece which came across in 3D and which sticks with you long after you leave.  It was beautiful.  We also picked up a poster of it because it hit us emotionally.

After Prado we wandered the streets some more, caught a sunset with a good view of the city, and hung out in a bohemian artists bar in the evening for more tapas.

Today we do not have plans.  We are going explore the city some more, eat some more gelato, and I am going tourist shopping.  It's been a wonderful trip so far and even though we haven't left Madrid yet, I am already making plans to return.

Exterior of the Almundena Cathedral.
More from the Cathedral. 

The Reina Sofia. 

Madrid celebrates pride week. 
#wavetheflag at Reina Sofia
Different view of the Cathedral

Prado Museo.




Sunday, June 28, 2015

Barcelona reflections and arrival in Madrid - by Zach

Barcelona is by far one of my new favorite places to be in the world. The city itself just has an air that  makes it seem different then any other place in the world. The architecture that Antoni Gaudi managed to accomplish in that city almost a century and a half ago is just amazing. Sangrada Familia was the second coolest place in Barce, after Park Guell. Park Guell was also designed by our favorite architect, it was to be a neighborhood with some 60 houses in it. The project, however tanked after only three houses were built. So now that failure turned into a beautiful park with outlooks throughout to view the city. It also had musicians and dancers throughout playing for the people. All of it was simply amazing and has been the highlight of my trip thus far. That and seeing Pablo! During his time in La Conner we got to know each other pretty well and this last year wasn't the same without him. So seeing him in his city was also a highlight of the trip. We went out and like everyone else got ourselves a beer and snack and cought up on what had happened. He also showed me his favorite place in Barcelona. Its a courtyard close to the Cathedral that has a lot of shade and a fountain in it. It is a little off the beaten path so it's a quiet place to be and a good place to just be at. The next night we met and hung out and he showed me around the beach more.

As we started our journey by high speed train to Madrid, the concurring concusses from us was that the Spanish countryside was a lot like the drive to Pullman. The rolling hills and wheat fields was a reminder of what is to come next year. Once we finally arrived in Pullman... I mean Madrid it was hot hot hot. It has since then only gotten more hot. Madrid is very much a metropolis city and more of a conservative town then Barcelona. In retrospect. I'm sure the next couple of days are going to bring as much adventure as Barce did (and a lot more treasures for all of you waiting at home).

-Zach











Thursday, June 25, 2015

Gaudi Day - Sagrada Familia and La Pedrera


We begin today with an observation. Barcelona never sleeps. In truth, Barcelona sleeps between 1pm and 5pm. There was more activity on the street below our apartment in the Barri Gotic at 3am than at 3pm. These jet-lagged travelers didn't mind though as we slept several hours to prepare for our first full day in Barcelona. Today's theme, the artwork and architecture of Antoni Gaudi.

(The photo's are below but we think you should suffer from some culture as Zach has had to do. Poor kid, this is just the first of many days of summer education for him.)

We began our day with late breakfast at the St. Joseph La Boqueria market. Fresh fruit, fresh fish, and cured meats were all around - and delicious. We left the market and walked towards la Sagrada Familia along La Ramblas, a main thoroughfare lined with street vendors, retail stores ranging from Timberland to Cartier.

A bit about Antoni Gaudi courtesy our friends at wiki:

Gaudi was a Spanish Catalan architect from Reus and the best known practitioner of Catalan Modernism. Gaudí's works reflect an individualized and distinctive style. Most are located in Barcelona, including his magnum opus, the Sagrada Família.

Gaudí's work was influenced by his passions in life: architecture, nature, and religion.[3] Gaudí considered every detail of his creations and integrated into his architecture such crafts as ceramics, stained glass, wrought ironwork forging and carpentry. He also introduced new techniques in the treatment of materials, such as trencadís which used waste ceramic pieces.

Under the influence of neo-Gothic art and Oriental techniques, Gaudí became part of the Modernista movement which was reaching its peak in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. His work transcended mainstream Modernisme, culminating in an organic style inspired by natural forms. Gaudí rarely drew detailed plans of his works, instead preferring to create them as three-dimensional scale models and molding the details as he conceived them.

La Sagarada Famila is astounding. Poor adjective. Awesome? Amazing? Incredible? Mind blowing? Yes, yes, yes and yes. Superlatives do not do it justice, nor do the pictures below the culture part of this post.

The beginnings of the Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family, known as the Sagrada Familia, go back to 1866 when Josep Maria Bocabella i Verdaguer founded the Spiritual Association of Devotees of Saint Joseph, which in 1874 began campaigning for the construction of an expiatory temple dedicated to the Holy Family. In 1881, enabled by various donations, the Association purchased a 12,800m² plot of land, located between the streets of Marina, Provença, Sardenya, and Mallorca, to build the temple on.

The first stone was laid on St Joseph’s day, 19 March, 1882, in a ceremony presided over by the Bishop of Barcelona, Josep Urquinaona. It signalled the start of construction, first in the crypt located under the apse, following the Neo-gothic design drawn up by the architect Francisco de Paula del Villar y Lozano, the Sagrada Familia’s first architect. After a short while, due to disagreements with the promotors, he resigned from the post of chief architect and the job fell to Antoni Gaudí.

Five generations have witnessed the building of Sagarada Familia and the construction continues. Gaudí’s conception of the Sagrada Familia was based on the traditions of Gothic and Byzantine cathedrals. His intention was to express Christian belief through the architecture and the beauty of the building and communicate the message of the Evangelists. He achieved a symbiosis between form and Christian iconography, with a personal architecture generated via new but thoroughly logical structures, forms and geometries inspired by nature, with light and colour also playing a central role.

The meaning of the Sagrada Familia is communicated through the form and expressivity of its architecture and the iconography of its sculpture.

The various architectural elements are imbued with hierarchically organised Christian symbolism. Thus, each of its 18 towers has a special significance. In the middle is the tower dedicated to Jesus Christ and around it are four towers representing the Gospels; the books containing the life and teachings of Jesus. The tower above the apse, crowned by a star, represents his mother the Virgin Mary, while the remaining 12 towers represent the 12 Apostles, witnesses to his words and deeds.

According to our tour guide, la Sagrada Familia will be completed in the year 2026. Any friends want to join us for that trip? We're in!

"From wherever they are seen, once finished, these 18 towers will be an extraordinary sight and provide a sense of elevation to the central tower dedicated to Jesus Christ." - A. Gaudi


After leaving the basilica we walked to another Barcelona piece of Gaudi architecture, Casa Mila' or La Pedrera.

Known as La Pedrera (the stone quarry) because of its rough outer appearance, reminiscent of an open quarry, Casa Milà was commissioned by the industrialist Pere Milà i Camps and his wife, Rosario Segimon i Artells, the widow of a man from Reus who had made a fortune in the colonies, from Antoni Gaudí in 1906. The idea was to erect a building on a plot on the boundary of Barcelona and Gràcia, as a family home, but also with apartments for rent, at a time when the Barcelona Eixample had become the driving force behind the expansion of the city, which turned Passeig de Gràcia into the new bourgeois residential area.

Casa Milà was built as two apartment blocks with independent entrances linked by two large inner courtyards and a sinuous common façade that conveys the rhythm of the interior. The structure of the house is made of pillars and contains an open plan floor with large openings on the façade. The building marked a break with the architectural language of Gaudí’s work in terms of innovation in both the functional aspects and the constructive and ornamental ones.

Gaudí planned Casa Milà (1906–1912) at the age of fifty-three, when he was at the height of his powers and had found a style of his own independent of any established ones. It turned out to be his last civil work and one of the most innovatory in its functional, constructive and ornamental aspects. Indeed, thanks to his artistic and technical ideas, it has always been considered a breakthrough work, outside the concepts of the time, a rara avis in Modernisme itself and, especially, a work that anticipated the architecture of the 20th century.

Barcelona continues to amaze us at every turn. People watching is a highlight as are pitchers of sangria and the perfect weather.

Tomorrow - Picasso!

Now - photo's of the day.
Entrance to the Market

 Fresh fruit juices for breakfast?  We think yes!
Why does this espresso barista keep winking at Kathy?
 FISH - it's our favorite dish...
 Jamon! (also our favorite dish)
Our tour guide for Sagrada Familia

Birth.

Death.

Ascension Towers

Sagrada Familia


 Gaudi was inspired by nature and metal fabricated scenes like these are found throughout the basilica

 These photo's are taken inside the church.  Gaudi wanted to create a forest-like scene above worshipers with tree trunks twisting towards the sky.




  Gaudi's office and workbench.

The view towards the Mediterranean from the tower at la Sagrada Familia.
#wavetheflag

 La Pedrera
 Inside the courtyard of La Pedrera


 On the rooftop of La Fedrera

 La Sagrada Familia in the distance from the rooftop of La Pedrera
 Lady on the rooftop
Sangria - with basil??? Who knew?